My First Days in Chittaranjan Park: From Loneliness to a Life of Adventure
Reflections On
Childhood Memories, Community Spirit, and the Changing Landscape of C R Park in
the 1970s
By Saibal Ghosh
It was an early morning of a foggy winter day in
December 1976 that I woke up in Chittaranjan Park for the first time! As an
eleven year old, looking around with both trepidation and a sense of loss and
sorrow, this place seemed to offer an opportunity to explore but also gave a
sense of being thrown at the outskirts of civilisation! With my spirits down
due to leaving behind a vibrant group of friends and a comparatively
‘happening’ neighbourhood of Sector 1, R K Puram, my little heart wrenched at
the idea of having to spend lonely and forlorn evenings!
Wherever I looked, I saw unfinished houses, empty
plots of land, with some completed homes strewn here and there - as if
consoling me and assuring me, “we are here, we are here”. Oh! Where will I get
my faithful band of Pappi, Dumpy and his sister Geeta, Taini – the forever
crying sardar and Mattu – the little cute sardar – all left behind in that
neighbourhood of joy – R K Puram! My sorrow-dipped heart cried again and again!
I complained to my father and told my mother, that this was injustice done to
me! This was akin to ‘Kalapani’ when punishment was metted out by British
judges to Indian freedom-fighters in the form of forced incarceration to the
Andamans, I protested. Perhaps, in my imagination I began to visualise myself
as one of those brave-hearts, forced to
resign to my fate of spending the rest of my life in a life-less and
unknown island, going through drudgery and a listless existence!
Not to say, that little avenues of ‘breathing space’
and break from the monotony weren’t there though! Sometimes, the urge to see
some life and noise became unbearable. These were the times when I ran-up to
the terrace of our, then single-storeyed house – located near the E-Block park
- and take a look towards Market No. 2. The expanse of land between our house
and the market - a centre of so much curiosity in the little world of mine -
was free of any visual barriers. Those days, market No 2 was just in the
process of graduating from shops of bamboo and thatch to those of wooden planks
and other sterner material – pucca concrete walls being still a few years
away! Our brush with something exciting
and different from our mundane life was always market no 2.
How can one forget the antics of a man, sozzled-up
after a drinking bout, putting a lighted candle atop a little tortoise and
urging the tortoise to cross the road near the market no 2, T-junction. With the traffic all held-up on the road,
nobody dared to intervene till the tortoise had its 15 minutes of fame crossing
the road – so ferocious was the reputation this particular gentleman!
Old-timers will surely remember him – may his soul rest in peace!
Talking of tortoise, I remember those occasions when
we all abandoned our football game in the E-block ground and ran to the fish
market, which was located where the Netaji Subhash Park is situated today.
These were occasions when huge live tortoises were killed to end up as an
exotic dish in people’s homes around. The gross scene did leave a lasting
impression on our young minds. By then, my gloom of loneliness had turned into
a period of perpetual happiness with friends all around! A bit too many, my
mother used to complain. Within a span of a few months of coming to C R Park, I
was part of a group of 14-15 boys and all 11 – 13 year olds! The backdrop of
our connection to each other was the E-Block ground. It was the call of the
afternoon/evening, which made us drop whatever we were doing at home and don
our football gear to reach our playfield – the E Block ground , which today is
a half-ornamental park and a half-puja ground. Then it used to be a single
field full of thorns and wild bushes on the fringes. The evenings reverberated
with our shrieks and shouts. All 15 of us divided into 2 teams, kicking away
the football to glory. And weren’t the mashimas and meshomoshais (uncles and
aunties) staying in the houses surrounding the playground mad at us! During
summers their window glass-panes got shattered by wildly kicked footballs and
during winters the glass-panes got shattered once again by wildly hit cricket
balls made of hardened cork!
Nonetheless, these were the same mashimas, meshos and
kaku, kakimas (uncle and aunties) who came out in full support, when under the
brand of a newly formed club – Netaji Sporting – all of us got together to
organise the maiden Saraswati Puja at the E-Block ground, way back in 1977. The
seeds of event organisation and management were sown into our young minds at a
time when today’s kids would be busy playing computer games, watching
television and ofcourse, planning and preparing to build a solid future for
themselves! The Saraswati Puja brought out all types of skills and talents in
us – thinking of some, I shudder even today! I particularly remember the
efforts, which we made to gather flowers for the puja mandap! The day prior to
the puja, a team was formed and a leader appointed. This team, wearing monkey
caps/balaclavas and armed with garden knives and carrying a huge bag, set-out
around 12 midnight, to pluck flowers from the gardens of houses in C R Park.
This expedition lasted for a couple of hours with the triumphant group
returning with a bagful of fresh flowers. The group also returned with
hilarious anecdotes of how they had dodged some house-owners who kept a vigil
specially that night to save their much loved flowers from the hands of the Ma
Saraswati worshippers! Our anger and ire on people not paying the saraswati
puja donation or ‘chanda’ got vented in forms, which now seem so silly and
impish. One of our more enterprising friends, unplugged the light bulbs from
the houses of the ‘defaulters’ and these found their place on a lighted
electric bulb garland around the neck of the goddess in the evening!
I remember one day about a sudden commotion in the
main road. Unlike the children of today, we had a complete freedom to jump into
the midst of any roadside argument between strangers. This freedom was wrested
by us from our parents - through arguments - in spite of their opposition. So
there I was on the main road within few seconds of hearing the noise. One of
our dada (elder brother) was excitedly delivering the news that some dacoits
riding horses had come to a small temple in the jungles - where the Chandralok
cinema hall stands today – to offer some puja! The Sholay days were at their
peak and thinking of a Gabbar Singh present so near to us, did give us goose
pimples. And so dense were the jungles beyond G Block that this story seemed to
be perfectly believable! Would anyone believe me if I say, that again from our
ground floor terrace, I could see the Tughlakabad Fort clearly! Of course, how
would one ever forget the dairies or ‘khatals’ just bordering F-Block and
Govindpuri! The daily intrusion by herds of cows and buffaloes into E & F
blocks and the resultant feuds – something, which should definitely get written
in the history of our neighbourhood.
Last but not the least, I do miss - what has now
disappeared from the current genre of youngsters of C R Park - the feeling of extreme
pride of belonging for this colony. Those days, the lines dividing C R Park and
the surrounding areas were very strong and clear. However, our uniqueness was
the fact that we always presented a united picture to our peer groups all
around. I remember a particular evening when some boys from an adjacent area
came to market no 2 and created a ruckus! Lo and behold, in a few moments they
got surrounded by groups of people of different ages and needless to say –
these ‘outsiders’ received a royal treatment – which, I guess they will never
forget in their entire life.
Today, when I look around, I miss that homely
environment that prevailed in E & F blocks in our childhood. A time - it
seemed, when no one was a stranger here. When asking for a glass of water from
an unknown ‘jethu’, ‘jethima’,’ kaku’,’ kakima’ or ‘mashima’ after playing a
hectic game of football in front of their house, fetched you not only water but
also some sweet or ‘mishti’. I guess, we all have to accept change – which they
say is the only constant in life – and settle for a smaller world in this era
of globalisation – but with widening distances separating next door/floor
neighbours staying in the glitzy modern granite and chrome houses, which are
now no more an exception but the rule in E & F Blocks of Chittaranjan Park.
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